A Morning in Gyeongbokgung Palace: Stepping into Korea’s Past

The journey begins. After leaving my Airbnb, I wound my way through the narrow back streets toward the main road. The air was cool and crisp, carrying the freshness of early spring. The sky was a clear blue with soft streaks of white cloud, and the trees seemed to be slowly waking from their winter slumber.

A short ride on a local blue bus brought me to my destination: Gyeongbokgung Palace. I arrived early, eager to catch the Changing of the Guard ceremony.

The Guard ceremony was more than just a tourist attraction. The colorful reenactment recreates a Joseon Dynasty ritual from as far back as 1469, centuries before the Americas were even known to the Old World. Guards stood tall in brilliantly colored uniforms, each hue and accessory signifying their specific rank and role. The rhythmic drumbeats, deep calls, and synchronized movements pulled me into the scene, making it easy to imagine the palace as it once was.

Exploring the palace grounds, I’ve come to realize palace is enormous, with vast courtyards framed by traditional tiled roofs. The intricate painted ceilings, their patterns bursting with color, demanded you stop and look up. Many visitors wandered through in hanbok, traditional Korean garments, adding even more color to the already vibrant space. And yes, if you wear hanbok or jeogori, admission is free, no matter your nationality.

As I explored, the mountains loomed in the distance, their massive rock faces exposed like ancient guardians. The sun sat angled in the southern horizon, casting a soft glow over the scene. Magpies hopped and scavenged across the grounds, unfazed by the flow of visitors. The air was so fresh it felt like each breath reset my senses.

The palace was built in 1395 under King Taejo, founder of the Joseon Dynasty. Gyeongbokgung was the dynasty’s main palace. It was largely destroyed during the Imjin War in 1592 and lay in ruins for more than 270 years. Formal reconstruction began in the late 19th century under King Gojong, with major work starting in 1865.

Tragically, during Japanese colonial rule after 1910, most of the palace’s structures were dismantled or demolished.

Large-scale restoration began in the 1980s. The first major restoration plan ran from 1990 to 2010, restoring 89 buildings, about a quarter of the palace’s original size. A second restoration plan began in 2010 and is ongoing, with work expected to continue through 2045.

It’s a peaceful pause in the heart of Seoul. You could spend an entire day here, wandering the palace’s maze of alleyways and hidden courtyards, each revealing a new perspective. Despite being surrounded by a bustling city, the grounds feel serene, with history, nature, and architecture blending into something timeless.

Leaving the palace, I carried with me more than just photographs, I carried a sense of calm and a deeper appreciation for the resilience of Korean culture.

– Hector Franco